How do I assemble FSA SLK carbon cranks & BB? A) the instructions are on the net, RTFM etc b) the axle floats axialy in the bearings, there’s a wavy washer on the NDS that stops them moving noticably. And go buy some propper loctite bearing compound (not threadlock, not grease) and apply libberaly to the splines. SRAM Red BB30 installation. Thisisatest wrote: both sram and fsa rely on the wavy washer to take up any tolerance in bb width beyond what the thin shims do. The washer also provides a controlled, healthy level of bearing preload. Cannondale uses them on their SI cranks. Until 2011, Specialized used them too.
I've searched here for an answer to this with no luck. What is the basic procedure for adjusting a BB30 crank after installation? I have a FSA K-Force Light and can't seem to find any solid explanation of how to do it.
It came with a wave spring washer, but the instructions I've found online don't show it being used not to mention that it's inner diameter is more the size of a standard spindle than a BB30 size. The way I have it together now (according to their instructions), the crank binds and does not spin freely when properly torquing the left arm down. Shouldn't be any adjustment. If everything is made right and installed correctly it should work as it was meant to. Wave washers are usually there to account for tolerance issues. Probably goes between a crank arm and bearing, which side I don't know but I would guess drive side.OK fair enough, but what is the big adjuster nut that threads onto the non-drive arm for if not for bearing adjustment?
I torque the arm down, then back off that nut a bit to try and get the bearing adjustment right and it loosens the whole arm, pulling it partially off the spindle. This is the part I can't figure out.
What's the nut for if not for adjusting the load on the bearings? The big adjuster nut is there because its part of the self extracting bolt. The inner bolt that you turn to screw on the crank arm pushes against the 'adjuster nut' (as you are calling it) to remove the crank arm.
FSA is torque to spec. There is zero bearing preload, except for the wave washer. Pull the crank arm off.
Make sure the outer 'adjuster nut' is tight. Install the wave washer onto the crank spindle Apply a dab of grease to the bolt threads. Torque crank arm to 39-49 Nm. I've installed a few of these cranks in the past month or so (due to a recall on the Gossamer BB30 crank arms) and its just a bolt on thing.
Nothing special. If something is binding, something has been damaged or mis-installed. Also, make sure that the crank is fully seated. The big adjuster nut is there because its part of the self extracting bolt.
The inner bolt that you turn to screw on the crank arm pushes against the 'adjuster nut' (as you are calling it) to remove the crank arm. FSA is torque to spec. There is zero bearing preload, except for the wave washer. Pull the crank arm off. Make sure the outer 'adjuster nut' is tight.
Install the wave washer onto the crank spindle Apply a dab of grease to the bolt threads. Torque crank arm to 39-49 Nm. I've installed a few of these cranks in the past month or so (due to a recall on the Gossamer BB30 crank arms) and its just a bolt on thing. Nothing special. If something is binding, something has been damaged or mis-installed. Also, make sure that the crank is fully seated.This is precisely what I was after and contains more information than the rest of the web combined re: bb30 installation/troubleshooting.
Thanks for the help. Edit: ON further review of the FSA instructions, they refer to it as a 'Preload nut', so I guess i wasn't too far off eh? Thread Self Exracting Crank bolt into spindle using a torque wrench with 10mm allen. Tighten crank bolt to a torque of 39-49Nm. Note: Apply grease to the crank bolt threads. Adjust Preload Nut (part 7 in Figure 1) to 7-9Nm of torque with 36mm spanner wrench.'